Published by: World Tibet Network News Thursday, October 16, 1997

LHASA, Tibet, October 14, 1997 (AP) -- Tibet is China's poorest province, still heavily dependent on the central government in Beijing for most of its revenue. Tourism has been a crucial source of cash for the remote, mountainous region.

But some human rights groups continue to advocate a boycott of tourism in Tibet -- claiming the Chinese government is destroying Tibetan culture and religion.

The Yak Dance, traditionally performed in celebration at harvest-time, is a prime example, they say.

In this arid, harsh land, food has always been scarce. A successful harvest meant another year without the prospect of starvation. But for some performers, the dance is not an annual ritual but a daily one. They are paid dancers at the Tourist Village located just outside Tibet's capital, Lhasa.

Their audience is made up of Chinese and overseas tourists who come to Tibet to see the fabled region variously known as "Shangri-la," "The Land of Snows," and "The Rooftop of the World."

Culture

A disagreement on effect

Tibetan government officials say tourism has become their single most important source of revenue.

In the last five years, it has brought in almost $120 million -- a sum that means a lot in a region where the average herdsman makes a little more than $100 a year.

Tourism officials say they are helping to preserve Tibetan traditions.

"We've taken some positive measures to protect the Tibetan religion and culture," said Sonam Dojie, deputy director of the Tibet Tourism Bureau. "We always put the original and traditional characteristics into consideration when planning any new tourist spot. And those shouldn't be changed. Maintaining traditional Tibetan culture is the key point in planning our tourist locations."

Critics -- including representatives of the Dalai Lama's government in exile -- accuse the Chinese government of cultural genocide in Tibet. They say Beijing doesn't care about preserving Tibetan traditions, but about making money from tourists.

"We feel that all of this has nothing to do with the real issue of preserving Tibetan culture," said Tseten Samdup, a spokesman for Tibetan government in exile. "(The Chinese government) has ... to try to address the criticism from the outside world or from the exiled Tibetan community, as well as to make it look very rosy for the tourists and to get the tourist money into Tibet."

Tourists pleased with Tibetan experience

Almost all visiting Western tourists report that Tibetan culture and religion seem to be thriving. Though, they admit, they might be limited in what they are able to see and hear.

"I was expecting it would be far more difficult to travel here, but it's been fine so far, no trouble at all," said Emma Cawkwell. "And no obvious signs of a bad situation either, maybe I'm being well-deceived, I don't know, but no problem at all."

Tibet -- isolated by the towering Himalaya mountains and for centuries a virtual island unto itself -- still lives by its ancient rituals.

Lhasa's temples and monasteries are still alive with worshippers and lamas. In the streets outside, pilgrims prostrate themselves in a circuit around the main temple.

It's an aura which continues to draw tens of thousands of international tourists a year -- in addition to more than 200,000 tourists from inland China.

But some international human rights groups argue that the money only benefits the Chinese government.

The international hotel chain Holiday Inn recently pulled out of its partnership in Lhasa's best hotel. Company officials called the move a "business decision," but some human rights groups saw it as a sign that their point of view had found influence.

Shangri-la

Western influence heavier than Chinese?

International tourists report coming to Tibet expecting to find a culture suffering a government clampdown -- but then find themselves surprised.

"We certainly had concerns before we came whether it was the right thing to do to come to Tibet, because that would simply be putting money into the pocket of the Chinese oppressor." said Bob Chambers. "I think we still do have those concerns, to some extent, although the feeling at the moment is not one of an oppressed population."

But others detect an ominous undertone.

"I think the control is pretty heavy. When you go across a bridge, you see a policeman stationed every 50 feet, and one of the other tourists we ran into (asked) why they were there," said Gary Epstein. "And the answer was, to keep the bridge safe. And so there is that undercurrent that is there, it's not overt, but I think it's there."

Apart from the changes brought since China took direct control of Tibet in 1951, many tourists say they notice a trend common across the developing world -- signs of Western culture seeping in.

"You see the kids wearing platform shoes, and high heels, and Michael Jordan t-shirts -- everybody has a Chicago Bulls hat on -- everybody says 'Hello, okay, Chicago Bulls' to you when you walk in the street," said Jeri Epstein. "So, I think MTV is beginning to affect Tibet the way it's affecting China, and all of Asia."

Government says it promotes tradition

Tibetan officials have hosted an increasing number of Western and other international journalists in recent months -- eager to show a Tibet which they hope will appear to be thriving and under control. Despite continuing criticism from the outside, they say Tibetan culture is being protected and developed.

"Our Tibetan traditions, culture and religion are not only undamaged -- they are also developing and flourishing," said Zhuo Majie, vice mayor of the Lhasa Municipal People's Government.

It may be that Tibetan culture faces as great a threat from forces of modernization as from Chinese influence. For the tourists, it's hard to see below the surface.

But the Tibetan government hopes that as long as these traditions are visible, the tourists will continue to come.