Published by: World Tibet Network News Wednesday, December 31, 1997

Time for Kids, Dec 12, 1997 v3 n11 p4(2)

Early one morning a few years ago, Sonam Dolker was shaken awake by her father. He whispered to Sonam, then 8, that she and her 6-year-old sister would have to escape secretly from their home in Tibet to a new life in India. Sonam's parents had planned the trip for weeks. They hadn't told the girls because they were afraid the Chinese police would find out and send the entire family to prison. "My escape was so secret that I couldn't even say goodbye to my best friend," says Sonam.

For the next two months, the girls and their guide stumbled over the snow and ice of the jagged Himalaya mountains. Their guide beat them when they slowed down. Finally, they arrived safely at Dharamsala (Dar-am-sahl-a), India.

By the end of this winter, at least 5,000 Tibetans, including 1,000 children, will have made the illegal crossing. They risk frostbite, arrest and their very lives. They are willing to brave these dangers to escape the harsh rule of China, which now governs Tibet. Those who survive the trip will have more freedom in India. But they will face new troubles in their new home.

LEAVING A BELOVED LAND

Tibet is a beautiful, snowcapped land in southwestern China. It has a rich history and culture, but China wants Tibetans to follow Chinese traditions. The Chinese forbid Tibetans to fly their flag or properly practice their religion, Tibetan Buddhism.

Tibet's religious and political leader, the Dalai (Dahl-eye) Lama, has not returned to his own country since fleeing Tibet nearly 30 years ago. He continues to lead Tibetans from India. The Dalai Lama won the 1989 Nobel Peace Prize for his efforts to free Tibet. But, he says, "there's been no progress. The Chinese position becomes harder and harder."

Though China's leaders insist they do not mistreat Tibetans, many Tibetans are convinced they must leave their homeland to help its culture survive. More than 100,000 Tibetans now live in India. Says an official in Dharamsala: "They want a chance to be real Tibetans."

Most make the journey in winter, when there are fewer guards at the border. Children must hike through deep snow, often wearing only canvas sneakers on their feet. "Every winter children die in the snow," says nurse Tsering Lhamo, "while their parents back in Tibet think they're safe and happy in Nepal or India."

THE WAIT FOR TRUE FREEDOM

The survivors of the brutal crossing to India are rewarded with a brief greeting by the Dalai Lama, who blesses every newcomer. The kids find a new home and school at one of the 20 centers called Tibetan Children's Villages, or TCVs. They are fed, clothed and taught the Tibetan language, English and Buddhism.

Most adults and teenagers look for work in India. "Young people in Tibet can only waste their lives on the streets," says Dorjee Wangdue, 14, who reached India two months ago. "There are no jobs, nothing to do."

But with so many Tibetans flooding over the mountains, there aren't many jobs left in India either. Even the Dalai Lama is urging older immigrants to return to Tibet.

While more TCVs are being built in India, many are overcrowded. More than 40 children cram into one small house. Adjusting to the hot climate and spicy food makes many kids ill or homesick. "If only my parents could afford it, they would come and take me away," says Sonam Dolker, now 11. "They must miss me too."

Tibetan parents who send their kids away say anything is better for them than living in Tibet under Chinese rule. And some Tibetans in India still have hope of a bright future for their homeland. Sonam Tsering, 17, was one of the first kids to be sent away, 10 years ago. Now, he says, he will study to be a lawyer.

"I can't go back because I will be arrested," says Tsering. "But one day we will get independence. Then I will return to develop my country, build a government and a good life."